I've tried making baguettes before now, with very limited success. But a recent trip to France reminded me how wonderful a fresh, traditionally made, still warm baguette really is. Thanks to some videos from Boulangerie Net (http://www.boulangerie.net/forums/bnweb/videobn.php ) and a recipe largely from Cook's Illustrated (http://www.mikedesilver.com/FrenchBaguettesRecipe.pdf ), and the above is the (finally happy!) result.
I'm so proud - they even "sang" as I took this photo (they crackle as they cool down). Now I'm wondering if I should open up a store; let me know if you think "yes!!!" :)
It turns out, that producing excellent baguettes in your own kitchen is mainly a matter of ingredients and technique. By ingredients I mean good bread flour (not supermarket all purpose white flour unfortunately) and pre-ferment sponge for the yeast. By technique I mean that it takes at least 30 hours - French traditions exist for a reason, after all.
Here's my simple rules to remember, if you want to try it yourself:
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Always use a pre-ferment (see the recipe). Never use dried yeast right out of the packet straight in your bread.
- Set aside at least 30 hours for this bread. Minimum of 6 for the pre-ferment, and 24 for rising, resting in the fridge, shaping and baking. I make the pre-ferment in the morning, the dough that night, first rise that night, then into the fridge, then shape and bake the second night.
- Fold salt into the dough during kneading. Never mix salt with the flour - the yeast is inhibited if you do this.
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Get linen teatowels to hold and stabilise the baguettes after shaping, when they rise for 40 to 45 minutes before baking. It's easy to tip them out onto your tray or stone after this (see the video).
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Roll those baguettes tight when you're shaping them (again, see the video).
- Make sure you slash the baguettes after they've risen and are about to go into the oven. Never slash them before rising.
- Always bake baguettes in an extremely hot oven. 500F in a regular oven, 450F in a convection oven. Use an oven thermometer.
- Make sure to steam the baguettes whilst baking. To do this fill a pan with water and pop it in the oven 5 minutes before the bread goes in.
Rule 8 really surprised me. Whilst professional bakers have very different ovens to you and I and can produce that crust in 10 minutes or less, we need 25 minutes baking and the steam really solves the problems of needing moisture in the crust during that baking time. This steaming really is a key secret to the lovely, tense, crunchy crust that wraps and protects the moist hole-shot crumb.
A hot baguette that you just produced by your own hands is a joy to behold. Enjoy it with some soft French cheeses, or perhaps my fresh hummus. Give it a try.
